mini free-day @ sparkfun?

The other day I saw a tweet from sparkle labs saying that they were ‘participating’ in American Express small business saturday. The jist of that event is that Amex will give you a $25 statement credit if you register your card on their sbs site and then use it to buy more than $25 from a small business on November 26th.

I did a little sleuthing and it seems like Sparkfun also qualifies. They show up on the sbs page in a search for Boulder, CO. There is no sure-fire way of knowing if it will work, but all signs point to yes.
If you want to give it a shot, be sure to actually register your card on their site, buy some stuff, and have (spark)fun supporting small businesses!

Please note: This has nothing to do with sparkfun themselves, and I doubt they even know about the programs existence. Don’t bug them with questions. Call up Amex if you want to ask someone. Either way you end up with cool stuff. One way you get a $25 credit for buying it. Oh yeah, it also seems like you can get the credit for every Amex card you have with them that you register(!)


Reprap Prusa: pushing plastic, almost ready to roll!


Here’s an overview shot of the prusa, E-stop switch, and macbook. I still have to build the bed, but the rest is all there. Yesterday I flashed it with the sprinter firmware and I like it so far! The biggest thing is that it has acceleration. That enables lower torque motors to start slow and ramp up faster over time. I also installed pronterface, because replicatorg has been very buggy with my prusa. One quirk is that the default z-axis speed is set to 200mm/minute. That was way too fast for my 80oz/in motors. Perhaps with a slow acceleration curve they might get up to that. I cut it down to 100 and they were much happier.
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Prusa Update

It’s been a busy start to the summer! I was able to go to Maker Faire, and now that I’m back I’ve spent every spare second on my bike or at the new hackerspace in town. One benefit of being a hackerspace member is that I finally have a place to keep my big /noisy / messy projects!

Here’s a pic of where it stands right now. I have everything together, but it’s not wired up yet. I’m also replacing the clonedel parts as fast as I can. They are causing more trouble than they are worth right now.
Here’s a link to solid state depot’s wiki on my prusa.

Here’s a pic of my monster e-stop button. It came out of a printing press. It is wildly overkill, but it looks cool. It is currently wired up to the psu, so if the switch is tripped, it cuts power to the machine. dead stop.

I’ll update more when I do more. I’ve been learning how to use a lathe in order to drill out some hot ends. It’s been exciting so far…

super easy measuring rod

rulers are nice, but when you want to tell the difference between 470mm and 469mm, there is no better way than with a stick that is 469mm long.

The reprap build instructions suggest you cut some sticks of precise lengths in order to verify that your threaded rod lengths are exact when the frame is all bolted together. That is a good idea, but it seemed like a little too much effort. What I did was to use the last threaded rod from the reprap build. Before I installed it, I put two nuts on with a washer in between. Now I can move the washer to whatever length I need to measure and I can stick it between two vertexes. It’s less steps, and it already uses parts that you have!

completely unsorted reflections on building a clonedel


1) Last weekend I completed drilling out my clondel kit and started bolting things together. Here’s a list of things I realized.

2) Having precisely cut threaded rods is nice, but not necessary provided they are longer than spec.

3) Drilling out the metrix createspace clonedel kit is difficult verging on impossible to do exactly. The vertex pieces that require precision don’t have flat, 90 degree sides. Also, some of my pieces varied +- 3mm in thickness. That is a big problem when the piece is 15mm thick, and it’s off in the – direction. I had to do a fair bit of eyeballing on those undersized pieces or else the drill bit would have just ripped through one side. This kit is a lot better than nothing, but the first thing to print is definitely replacement pieces. I also think I have one of their earlier versions judging by the way my z motor brackets look, so potentially they have improved since the first few batches.

4) I scavenged some 8mm rod from two desktop printers. That gave me enough for the z and the y axis. To get the long rods needed for the x axis I think I will probably need 2 more printers to destroy. I’ve been toying with looking into the rods from ikea filing cabinets to see if they are even vaguely straight or consistent. I doubt it.

5) Looking at the printers made me wonder if dc motors could be used with opto-encoders for this project as a replacement for the steppers. I’m not sure what would be the best way to do it, but I’m considering making a “stepper driver board” out of an arduino to see if I can get it to behave as a drop in replacement.

6) It appears like the thin and thick sheet are unnecessary for a prusa. Well that’s nice.

7) I’m looking into using my xylotex 3 axis kit as the stepper interface for this prusa. I think that just means I need to put the mosfets, end stop pins, and thermistor circuits on a shield for my mega and I ought to be good to go.

Nema 17 on the left, Nema 23 (with 260 oz/in of torque) on the right
8) I’ve got 3 nema 23 260 oz/in steppers that would be delightfully overkill for this. I’m wondering if it is worth the trouble of building new brackets for everything. I know that torque does not necessarily equal speed, but I would like to see how fast those would print. I would try the extruder (possibly) and the x and y with those monsters. The z axis doesn’t need that kind of speed.

9) I ended up buying some 8mm linear ball bearings from ebay. 12 for $15 isn’t too bad considering they will last a lot longer than the pla.

10) Using the testing setup of repg from Ben Jackson I have been able to connect to a mega 1280 and a 328. I can’t do much else before it crashes, but at least its a start. Repsnapper seems to work flawlessly with the 1280, untested on the 328.

A Makerbot disaster struck!

I’m not sure what’s been going on with my makerbot, but I don’t like the way it has been progressing! All week long I have been having trouble with my extruder board. I’ve been talking with Matt at Makerbot and he has been super helpful, but we haven’t figured it out yet. It will give me the dreaded “toolhead 0 : not found” error, and once finally connected it will “get tired” mid print and stop heating.

Well… today it stopped heating the extruder tip while printing, then it snagged on the print, bent the brass tube, and the hot end snapped off of the mount with a little flourish!

broken makerbot hot end

I’m going to try to find the drawings for the plastic mount piece that broke. Thankfully that ought to be easy enough to make by hand. After that I have to say I’m at a loss as for what I can do to prevent this from happening again. This is why they call it DIY. I just wish sometimes it was more “doing”, and less “yourself”.

$10 DIY Makerbot filament spool

I can’t believe it took this long, but I finally had a bad filament tangle last week, and a few aborted prints because my old setup wasn’t working. I really needed to get my filament spooled so that it would nicely dispense, and not jam, tangle, or unspool.

I really love the way the official makerbot kit looks, and I bet it really works smoothly. I just don’t have $90 sitting around. I’ve already spent that on ABS, relays, arduinos, and prusa parts!

I went down to the old Home Depot and picked up a cheap ($8) extension cord spool and a few feet of nylon water tubing. My extruder hasn’t had any trouble with its grip, so this creation has the extruder just pull the filament off the spool. I drilled out the handle and carefully spooled the ABS on the spool. THAT took a while, but it’s way better than having to constantly babysit the machine.


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Help me hack the Belkin Conserve

Howdy internets!

I love the idea of being able to safely switch ac power from a microcontroller. There are products like the powerSwitch tail from sparkfun that easily do this job, but I like to try to be as cheap as possible, so I’m trying to do it for half the price with the Belkin Conserve. This seems like it is just a relay built into a wall wart that is only activate for a pre-selected amount of time. Ideally it helps you reduce your energy use by only charging your phone for say, 3 hours, or by turning off your tv after you fall asleep.

I bought one thinking the relay was probably powered by a dc voltage, and then that I could activate it with a pin from the arduino. Maybe I would have to put in a mosfet or an opto isolator, but it wouldn’t be too hard. After opening it up, I realized that it was all AC and I’m at the limit of my knowledge. I don’t want to zap anyone or any thing, so I’m asking the internet as a whole: what can I do with this?

Here is a closeup of the front of the board,

Here is a closeup of the back of the board.

If anyone has any ideas on how to safely trip the relay from a microcontroller pin I would love to hear about it. If not, then maybe I’ll just let it do what it was intended to do. And then go buy the powerswitch tail.

Makerbot extruder fixed!

It all came down to this…

When I assembled the extruder (makerbot mk4) the allen wrench that came with the kit never felt right. Regardless I tightened the set screws on the gear until the allen wrench felt like it was about to strip it, and then I went on my merry way. After watching my extruder not work for the last few weeks I finally:
1) rebuilt my hot end
2) put longer leads on the thermistor and nichrome so I could move the extruder board out of the way
3) put a light on my table next to the maker bot, and
4) noticed that the motor shaft was spinning but the gear was not!

So I disassembled the extruder, found the RIGHT sized allen wrench (1.5mm maybe?) tightened everything down, and I was on my way! It’s frustrating that it took so long to figure it out, but I’m so glad that I finally did. I spent the morning printing out an accessible wade’s extruder and playing around in skeinforge.

I wasn’t able to print out the small gear on the wades extruder no matter what I tried. It always ended up getting eaten by blob monsters. I eventually figured out how to use the multiply feature in skeinforge and printed out 9 of them. With no raft to boot! The no raft thing was only cool because I figured out how to do it, but in the end three or four of them broke free and were garbage.

That last pic is what I was really surprised with. I have never printed without a raft before, and I was really happy with how flat and smooth the surface was. One more thing pushing me towards building that heated bed!

DIY heated build platform for makerbot cupcake.

Let’s give this a try!
Tonight I prepped 4 3ohm 10 watt aluminum resistors with in two parallel pairs with solid copper wire. I gave it 12 volts of juice and it got plenty hot quickly, so hopefully this back of the matchbook effort will pay off.

I don’t have the aluminum plate with me, so I only prepped the electronics. This is what they look like.

And here is a closeup of one resistor.

I have been reading a few other blogs about other peoples diy hbp builds and I was getting really confused. Hydraraptor is using 9(!) 48ohm resistors on his reprap hbp. That seemed really high, considering the people doing it with nichrome wire only have about 6 ohms total.

Then I realized that Hydraraptor is using 240VAC. That seems dangerous, and in one of his posts he mentions how one of his resistors failed and ended up melting a bunch of his circuit breakers. Yikes, that’s not for me.

My plan is to set this up on an aluminum plate with the stock thermistor from the makerbot kit. I’m still unable to print because of some extruder issues, but this is a good distraction while I try to figure that out. I’m also going to try building one with nichrome wire. IF it works as well then it’ll be lower profile than this resistor configuration.